Datsun 280z to 240z Front end conversion!

At the end 2016 Black Dragon auto, a online store for many older classics, announced it was going out of business. I remember reading on the forums that they had reproduction early 260z bumpers available and can be had at a bargain of $130 shipped over the more expensive 240z bumpers($300+ shipped). Though there are some differences I always wanted to go this route as I didn’t like the wide gaping hole in the front nose that the Z’s have when you take the bumpers off. I always kept the Black Dragon Auto 260z bumpers in the back of my mind until they announced they were closing (SALES!). I now have a brand new 260z bumper.


Of course, the bumper doesn’t come with any hardware. I ordered some 240z to 280z conversion brackets off eBay ($50). They bolted right up to the original bumper shock locations and placed the bumper straight and tight to the body.



I was satisfied with how everything bolted up but a deal came up on craigslist that I didn’t want to let pass: 240z valence with aero lip. Not the typical 240z from air dam but allows me to have a 240z front end :). Gives a much cleaner look imo.


So Clean, So Dreamy…**not mine**

The Air dam.


Red with racing stripes aka FAST


Mild Crack

Test Mounted


Notice the droop because it was hitting

During the test mount I noticed a couple of places on the frame I needed to modify. The horn mounts and the lower grille mount wanted to be in the same place as the air dam. Quick work with a sawzall and it cleared.


Interference areas

Took care of the fiberglass damage, then sanded and prepped lip



Painted it gunmetal metallic to match my rear fenders!





Now I just need 240z Turn Signals! Maybe I’ll whip something up instead..


Intro to HALIICON and Turbo swap DYNO numbers and update!!

Haven’t been able to post in a while. Megasquirt is up and running strong @ stock psi to 12psi controlled by a greddy electronic boost controller.

Dyno: 196 hp, 229 ft/lbs at 10psi


I did have to work out a couple of kinks that I will get to posting up soon.

For now:



After doing my clutch and fixing the brakes, I decided to take on installing Megasquirt.* I’ve been looking to install megasquirt since MS1 V.3 came out as it was simple to install and a way to get into tuning. DIY!  Initially, I only wanted it for my N/A L28 before the turbo swap in order to get my feet wet before tuning for a turbo but there is a lot of support online. “Baby Steps”

Megasquirt begin 2 (2)


Because I swapped to the OE turbo electronics not too long ago most of the wiring was straight forward to remove. I wanted to make a new wiring harness, use the DIYautotune relay board, use the 280zxt dizzy, use the stock fuel injectors, and use the stock J-Pipe. The goal of the swap and install as a whole was to run on par or better than the stock electronics with the tunability that megasquirt allows. HP goals: ~225-250hp.

I started with the relay board, the Megasquirt MS1 v3 ecu, new 280zxt injectors, a 240sx tps, GM IAT and CLT sensors, and an Innovate WB02. My WB02 was already installed but i did need to rewire and change the output readings. More on that later.


wires 3

I started with the TPS. The 240sx TPS when put on a 280zxt TB doesn’t quite reach the mounting holes on the TB. I made an extension bracket out of the backing from an old 280zxt tps and made sure the TB butterfly arm turned the 240sx TPS.


My injectors came with new clips so I made a new harness for it. I was also able to get a barb-style pallnet fuel rail which really cleans up the engine bay compared to the trumpet looking stock one.

wires 4


Fuel rail mock up

The injector harness was combined with the CLT and the Distributor trigger wires. I routed the IAT, coil, WB02 signal and TPS connections on a separate branch of the harness.


wires 5 (2)

harness routing 3

I had the an IAT bung and 1 ⅛”  BOV adapter tube welded on. I have a stock plastic  EVO 9 BOV on there. The stock recirculation system was removed and the manifold was cleaned up.


J-pipe 3

I rewired the WB02 and all of my gauges. When I first put them in, it was done in a rush. The WB02’s output had to get changed for both its output wires. It was reading lambada rather than in 0.00 – 20.0 AFR like it was set up in Megasquirt or on my Innovate G3 gauge. I put a gauge/ WB02 relay board in the driver footwell where the original ECU was.

wire mess

Realy board gauges

 I put the Megasquirt relay board in the passenger footwell and the Megasquirt ECU in the glove box. There’s enough slack if either need to be moved in the future.  

relay board loc


Relay board finished

After everything was cleaned and hooked up, I gave it a quick rundown to make sure my circuits were working and continuity was where I needed it. Gave a turn to ACC with the key and the ECU lit up. Stage 1 was tedious but finished. The real headache will be stage 2, getting it started and running properly.

Installed 4

Installed 2

Almost cinched up

Gauge loc

lights at the end of a tunnel!!

Part 2 Soon!

White Bunny Clutch upgrade!

When I originally installed the L28ET I purchased a used Spec Stage II non-turbo clutch to handle the increase in torque from the turbo engine. While it did a fine job holding down the power, the stiff pedal feel sucked unless I was smashing through gears (ie. not in traffic or any city driving). I let it go(hoping I would get used to it) while I was sorting the gauges and getting it to run right, but while I was testing it the throwout bearing went out/started to make noise. I figured if I was going to drop the transmission I may as well get the clutch sorted as I already had a turbo flywheel (uninstalled).

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Looking at ACT/Centerforce set ups, I noticed the hefty price tag and comments on the pedal feel from users. I decided to try the Competition Clutch “white bunny” set up from Enjuku Racing. This set up is meant for the KA24de but it will work on the L28ET. It comes with a lightweight flywheel and a 250mm pressure plate. With the larger pressure plate the Z can handle up to 400 ft/lb torque with a much lighter pedal feel PLUS a lighter flywheel :).


Stock, Stock Turbo, 250mm lightened Flywheels


Top: White Bunny  // Bot: Spec Stage II Pressure Plates


Top: Spec SII // Bottom: White Bunny Clutch Disks


Shiny 🙂


White Bunny installed.


Spec Stage II for N/A L28 For Sale 

You will need to use the proper l28 turbo throwout bearing collar (shorter one) and you will need to use a pathfinder clutch slave cylinder so the clutch fully actuates when you push down the pedal. If you are using the stock Z trans you will have to grind down the bellhousing on the passenger side near the starter location a bit to make sure the large pressure plate clears it. (found out the hard way)

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Took it out for a quick spin and I was very pleased with the pedal feel. I’m still breaking in the clutch but it grabbed hard under the mild driving around the block.

I wasn’t able to fully break it in yet. Shortly after finishing the clutch, I started the next project. It rhymes with Sega Mquirt. >:)

Stay Tuned.

280z E-brake linkage fix+replacement

The E-brake on my Z has never worked properly. Last event I took it to (2010), a link in the e-brake system snapped and has been out ever since. I decided to tackle it along with a sound coming from my clutch/transmission/throw-out bearing (see upcoming post).

Living the Jackstand Life:


Stock E-brake components:


Broken link:


Replacement bolt:


Option 1 is basically a spacer that fits over the middle link. Option 1 improves leverage/reduce throw on the stock link set up:



Option 2 is a turnbuckle(current set-up) that I picked up from Home Depot with appropriate spacers and bushings to replace the middle link. – Allows for a quick, wide range of adjustment for the amount of throw you want in your e-brake.


The set up bolts in with the correct bushings/spacers:



The E-brake can now be fully locked at 2 clicks or it can be set up to lock at 5 clicks. Stay tuned for the clutch write-up soon.