280z E-brake linkage fix+replacement

The E-brake on my Z has never worked properly. Last event I took it to (2010), a link in the e-brake system snapped and has been out ever since. I decided to tackle it along with a sound coming from my clutch/transmission/throw-out bearing (see upcoming post).

Living the Jackstand Life:


Stock E-brake components:


Broken link:


Replacement bolt:


Option 1 is basically a spacer that fits over the middle link. Option 1 improves leverage/reduce throw on the stock link set up:



Option 2 is a turnbuckle(current set-up) that I picked up from Home Depot with appropriate spacers and bushings to replace the middle link. – Allows for a quick, wide range of adjustment for the amount of throw you want in your e-brake.


The set up bolts in with the correct bushings/spacers:



The E-brake can now be fully locked at 2 clicks or it can be set up to lock at 5 clicks. Stay tuned for the clutch write-up soon.


LONG OVERDUE UPDATE: Content inside.

It has been more than a couple of months since I’ve updated anything on this site. A lot have transitions have happened (wrapping up school, moving, mostly non-car things).

But in the midst of it all, I was able to squeeze out an event in August: a SCCA autocross in Stockton CA in August. It’s October right? Finally got around to uploading, editing, posting the vids. I drove with my 08′ Subaru Impreza 2.5i. I wasn’t expecting much out of it, but I wanted to get out there and drive. It was 5 speed with no mods, so why not?

Either way, I enjoyed the couple of runs playing around with the Subie. I even improved my times by 1 second each run… but I think I’ll stick to older cars for now :)

I have some more updates up my sleeve as I have accumulated quite a bit of content over the summer… Not to mention some of the future events I have planned >:}

stay tuned! – J

Coming to a Close, Project Chevette.

After the event, I took a moment to think about the next steps I would be taking on the Chevette to get it sliding a little better. I realized that the cost of getting the car to a point to where I would like it to be would be way too much of an investment. It would be better to get a chassis that is a lot easier to modify and much more capable for spirited driving… or even take the money I would be spending on it and put it towards finishing up the Z. It’s not that it can’t be done or its a bad platform…there are just better options.

Either way, I was able to meet the original builder of the Chevette and I found that the Chevette had quite the history.  Built from the ground up, it was truly an enthusiast’s car. Here’s some history, the build was all well documented.

I’m honored to have picked it up and contributed to it. Turns out he sold it, not because he wanted to, but because of tough times. He was more than enthusiastic when he found that I was thinking about selling it. He offered to buy it back. Maybe I’ll build another one. I’ll miss the challenge.


First Meet


Twins Almost


Back at Home

Stay Tuned… I got cashed out. >:)

Reno Drift #2 Super Update… ONE Month Later

There was a Reno Drift 8/16… so this is a late posting but its been busy.

Again, the Chevette and the Buick V6 proves to be a durable match for drifting and the combo is sufficient for some sliding. The new suspension set up also proved to work extremely well. Turn-in was great and the car handled flat. I was able to hold and control slide much better on a much better dampened and sprung car. However, the more and more I dug into tossing it the more I found that I wasn’t getting that far with it.


The Grid


grand ovation





Despite that, I was able to get almost 20 runs in and learned how to handle the Chevette fairly well. For preparation of the event, I took the hood off and had a sprayer on hand so all the troubles I had with the car with overheating my first time out, for the most part, were taken care of. A spacer and heat shielding on the fuel lines were also added to battle vapor lock. The Chevette ran cool and consistently the whole day.


Cooling mods.


After shock from the event

The event itself was, again, amazing filled with good people, grassroots fun, and tons of driving time. Here’s a video made on a quadracopter at the event. Check out his channel when you can! See if you can spot the Chevette!

Stay Tuned for a history lesson !!

Chevette budget suspension set up

After some researching, measuring, and theory crafting, I’ve put together what I think is a nice budget suspension set up for the Chevrolet Chevette. I’m not sure If it will work for all the variations of the T-Body but it should be applicable to them all. Upon tearing it apart, I found that my car had cut springs(and a set of blown shocks). After installing the set up, it was the same height as it was before. I would say it would lower a stock Chevette maybe 1.5″ to 2″. Do note this is a budget set up. You can always improve/get better parts than what I have. anyways..

Front Set up:

Shocks: Bilstein AK5555F – W/ proper lower bushing installed.

Seems like these shocks had the most reasonable valving of the “AK” series of shocks from Bilstein and their sizes matched my set up. Length can be an issue without lowering ball joints. Stock:15″ Bilstein: 13″

Springs: Monza front Springs  Moog #CS-6490 w/ 2 coils cut (estimated spring rate: 7 kg/mm)

Rodney Dickman Fiero 1″ lowering ball joints – These allowed me to use the Bilstein shocks because it pushed the upper control arms up by one more inch. Stock Shock :15″ // Bilstein + Lowering Ball Joints: 14″  Plus, without the lowering ball joint my front height would be too high for the rear so another coil would have to be cut or a different spring would have to be used.

Slotted upper ball joints – For camber. – Gives camber adjustment to correct the suspension from the lowering ball joints. Modifications could be made for more static camber.

Prothane Fiero front urethane bushing kit. (not installed) – It looked like it would fit.

Rear set up:

Shocks: 1976 Ford Thunderbird rear KYB Gas adjust. KYB #KG5519

Springs: Chevette front springs. 2 coils cut. (estimated rate: 5 kg/mm) – a better spring could easily be used.

S10 19mm sway bar.

UMI Monza adjustable rear panhandle par. (Not installed. It’s 3 inches too long)

Total: Roughly $350 in parts.

Notes: An additional coil can be cut from the front and proper springs + camaro agx or qa1 shocks in the rear would give you another .5″ or so but can get you into the F: 8 kg/mm  R: 6kg/mm range.

Front shock mounts need to be changed and springs need caressing to fit properly. Upper control arms need to be modified for more camber out of the slotted ball joints. Lower control arm, where the ball joint is, needed to be ground down to clear the brake disk during suspension movement. GM ball joint separator tool highly recommended.

Rear sway bar mounted like the camaro. Sway bar link mounts were fabricated and nissan quest front sway bar links were used. The difference was huge. Sway bar, however, may be too large. Thunderbird Rear shocks fit on the stock cantilevers on the axle axle.

Overall the set up was phenomenally good compared to the cut spring/blown shock set up in the car before. The suspension inspired a lot more confidence during braking, and initiating turns.

Stay tuned for a August 16th Reno drift event update. The suspension was definitely tested there :)